Where to Eat in Cornwall, UK

Fifteen years ago, my first encounter with the enchanting beauty of England’s West Country took place in Somerset. It all started with a sharp turn off a country road onto a narrow lane, which felt more like a hiking path to most Americans. As my wife, a Somerset native, took our family to Cornwall for a seaside getaway last summer, I thought I knew what to expect. However, the rugged far-southwestern edge of England proved to be unlike any place I had ever seen. It exuded a rural charm similar to neighboring Somerset, Devon, and Dorset, yet possessed a unique ambiance and scenery. The area boasts wide sandy beaches melting into gentle waves, with a backdrop of top-notch art, exceptional dining, and some of the best coffee I’ve ever tasted. The atmosphere is laid-back, with the rural reserve of England blending with vast stretches of sea and sky. Lush gardens filled with palm trees, ferns, and cacti thriving in the warmth of the jet stream add to the allure. The dining scene is exceptional, with casual-fancy eateries striking a balance between pubs and fine dining, offering expertly crafted dishes without any airs.

We discovered a small cluster of cottages called Middle Colenso Farm through Sawday’s, a trustworthy accommodation recommendation service across Europe. The farm comprises old stone buildings renovated with stylish interiors, set amidst beautifully landscaped subtropical gardens. Equipped with a well-stocked kitchen and a cozy woodburning fireplace for cool summer nights, the farm also features on-site yoga classes and a sauna. Located near Penzance and St Ives, it serves as an ideal base for exploration.

My love for coffee and pastries is well-known, much to the amusement of my eye-rolling children. Visiting Origin in Porthleven for a caffeine fix was a highlight of the week, with their in-house roasted beans and meticulously prepared coffee drinks. The quayside setting added to the experience, and the delectable baked goods, such as the sugar-dusted morning bun and gluten-free pistachio tea cake, were simply divine.

Argoe, a modern restaurant overlooking a working harbor outside Penzance, offers a unique dining experience. The majority of the seating is outdoors on a covered deck, providing stunning views and a cool breeze that complements the simple yet refined seafood dishes. From grilled turbot to fish soup with rich flavors, the menu celebrates the region’s oceanic bounty with delicious simplicity.

Cornwall’s temperate climate nurtures a variety of tropical plants, showcased at Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens alongside contemporary sculptures. The surreal James Turrell installation is a standout, offering a unique perspective of the sky. The Big Green Shed, nestled amidst picturesque countryside, offers a casual dining experience with a diverse menu featuring lightened versions of classic dishes.

Tate St Ives Museum, located in the quaint town of St Ives, houses captivating artworks, including pieces by Mark Rothko and Beatriz Milhazes. St Ives Bakery stands out for its exceptional sourdough breads, cakes, and famous laminated buns.

Exploring Cornwall’s coast path and sandy beaches is a must, offering breathtaking hiking opportunities and access to the gentle surf for water activities. Planning a return trip, we have our sights set on unique stays and dining experiences like Coombeshead Farm and chef Simon Stallard’s restaurants.