Perfect summer tomatoes? Turn them into butter

Tomato butter is a delightful summer treat that is sweet, spiced, and soaked in sunlight — a temporary pleasure in a jar during the summer season. As the days get warmer, the genuine tomatoes, the ones that bruise easily, make a comeback, reminding us they are more than just sandwich fillers or burger accompaniments. During these few precious weeks, we celebrate their simplicity, claiming they only need a pinch of salt and should not be refrigerated to maintain their flavor. We share pictures of them glistening in the sun, hoping to freeze that moment in time a bit longer.

The obsession with tomatoes may seem over the top, but it reflects a deep desire to experience time through something tangible that we can taste. In a world where grocery stores offer consistent produce year-round, the arrival of tomato season is a rare opportunity to truly notice the change in seasons. This kind of awareness, especially of the seasons, is something that writer Ligaya Mishan recently discussed, highlighting the importance of noticing the subtle changes in nature.

Pickling was once a way to celebrate the microseasons of agriculture, marking what was ripe and what needed preservation. A cookbook from 1965 by Leonard Louis Levinson, a comedy writer turned pickle enthusiast, showcases various pickle and relish recipes. Among them is tomato butter, a slow-cooked spread made from tomato pulp, sugar, and spices like ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and lemon juice. This rich and silky condiment captures the essence of summer evenings, making everything feel a bit more golden and ripe.

While Levinson’s recipe yields a large batch, I have been experimenting with smaller batches at home, adjusting the flavors to suit my preferences. Adding more ginger, less sugar, and a hint of miso for a savory undertone has elevated the taste of the tomato butter, making it perfect for sandwiches, crackers, or as a spread on cornbread. The fleeting nature of tomato season makes savoring this tomato butter even more special, reminding us of a time when tomatoes tasted like the essence of the season itself.