The Ancient African Grain, Fonio, Might Be the Future of Beer

In a feature called Person of Interest, we chat with notable individuals who have caught our attention lately about their current activities, meals, reading materials, and interests. Our next guests are Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, and chef Pierre Thiam, the author, chef at Teranga, and founder of. They recently spoke with Bon Appétit about their collaboration centered around a small African grain with significant potential.

When brewmaster Garrett Oliver noticed Chef Pierre Thiam at an event in 2019, he immediately made his way through the crowd. Oliver had just seen Thiam’s TED Talk on fonio, an ancient West African grain. The two were attending a benefit for the Museum of Food and Drink honoring Questlove, and Oliver felt compelled to introduce himself. He was inspired by Thiam’s description of fonio as a resilient and nutrient-rich grain with a history dating back 5,000 years. Fonio is known for being climate-change-resistant, requiring minimal inputs, and not needing irrigation, particularly in regions where cultivation is challenging. Oliver, who recently marked 30 years at Brooklyn Brewery, pondered the idea of brewing beer with fonio after hearing Thiam’s talk.

Originally from Dakar, Senegal, Thiam discovered fonio while conducting research for his cookbook in Kédougou, in the southeast of the country. Fonio, once widely consumed throughout Africa, is now predominantly found in the Sahel region, known for its semi-arid climate stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea. With its earthy taste, fonio can be enjoyed in various forms such as cereal, noodles, baked goods, or salads resembling couscous. Fonio holds historical significance, with the Dogon people of Mali referring to it as “po” or the “seed of the universe,” as Thiam highlighted in his presentation.

Fonio, being nutritionally rich and requiring minimal water and inputs to grow, is seen as a valuable food source in regions where farming is considered challenging. Thiam views fonio as a way to restore soil health and provide economic opportunities for communities. Oliver sees fonio as a link between cultural heritage and beer production. As a prominent figure in the brewing industry, Oliver is focused on addressing inequalities in brewing opportunities and fostering connections through heritage and culture.

Their collaboration, known as Brewing for Impact, introduced fonio to major breweries globally, resulting in a variety of fonio-based beers. Six years after their initial encounter, fonio is now accessible to North American brewers through a leading brewery supply house. This investment has a direct impact on Thiam’s network of farmers in Mali and Togo, many of whom are women, and facilitates large-scale production at Thiam’s food brand Yolélé in Senegal.

Oliver and Thiam aim to inspire breweries worldwide to incorporate fonio into their beer recipes regularly, expanding the possibilities for beer enthusiasts. This initiative is a blend of tradition, sustainability, and economic empowerment, with fonio at its core.

The Brewing for Impact series, launched by Oliver in 2024 to commemorate his 30th year at Brooklyn Brewery, showcases breweries worldwide that collaborate with fonio, showcasing the grain’s versatility. A portion of the sales from this series supports the Michael James Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling, which awards scholarships to underrepresented talent in the brewing and distilling industry.

With over 120 breweries now using fonio, the future looks promising for innovative fonio-inspired beers. Some notable examples include Fonio Rising pale ale from Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn in Dakar Fonio Pilsner from Maison Kalao in Senegal, and a Fonio Belgian Blonde from Russian River in California. The incorporation of fonio in brewing not only offers new flavor profiles but also contributes to sustainability and economic development in Africa.